Lancers Brasserie Review

First: scene setting; it’s an Indian, so that must mean curry, right? Right, but as the name suggests, the dishes are Bengali style – loads of the usual favourites in the company of some regional specialities. If the words ‘Indian’ and ‘lancers’ don’t’ bring Bengal galloping to mind, see below. Like an average thriller, all will be revealed!

It’s an Indian, so there must be lager, right? Well, the folks at Lancers would like to destroy that assumption. Mission Impossible*? Maybe, but the extensive wine menu opens with an introduction imploring diners to discard the entrenched view that curry can only be enjoyed with lager and even goes as far as recommending labels that compliment their more popular dishes. ‘Heresy’ some will cry; any beverage accompanying a curry should be in a pint shaped receptacle! And so another section of the menu extols the many virtues of supping real ale.

And clearly, Lancers is persuading a lot of Edinburgh curry lovers because despite it being a Tuesday, and slightly off the beaten track (Stockbridge), Lancers was heaving with a good mix of clientele, tourist groups, families, friends and couples of all ages and categories.

The food menu is large, thus catering for this mix; everything from a single person meal on an elegant tasting platter, to two speciality dishes: Royal Murgh Massallam (for 2) and Kurji Lamb (for 4), both require 48 hours notice. There’s also a small selection of French dishes for the spice shy, providing, of course they have the nerve to order them when faced with such a fine Bengali selection.

Naturally, I started with the ubiquitous popadom, for which all dips proved tasty, even the lime pickle that I normally shun. With the crunchy popadom (and a sizeable amount of the mango chutney) vanquished, I found myself in a conservative mood and ordered mixed pakora to start followed by chicken kurma, creamy and expertly spiced, and the staples of rice and naan. What can I say? If I could have I would have licked the curry dish clean. Only the pressure of a restaurant rafter-packed with patrons and staff, and the threat of damage to Fluid Edinburgh’s reputation, prevented me from doing so (next time, though…).

As well as its specialist dishes and standards, Lancers also has an adventurous side to its menu. This is Lancers’ 25th anniversary and as part of the celebrations a special dinner is to be cooked combining a selection of Scottish game with traditional Bengali methods. The delights include Rabbit Tikka, Venison Khatta Pyaz and the intriguing Hyderbadi style Partridge Curry. These are one-offs, but it would be fun to see some sneak onto the permanent menu.

Lancers is split into three: the Lancers’ Mess, where we were sat, and the Regiment Club, both upstairs; plus the downstairs Officers Mess with views of the Water of Leith. Both the Regiment Club and the Officers Mess can be hired privately with dedicated service and menu selection. The Officers Mess also has its own bar and plush furniture for a very personal, refined dining experience.

And now its revelation time (remember - the bit about the name). Lancers is named after the Bengal Lancers cavalry regiments who were originally formed by Nawab Wazir of Oudh in 1787 (believe me, the menu is worth a good read!) before being subsumed into the British Army during the 19th century. The restaurant food, decor and dining room names reflect this military heritage.

Lancer’s is an Indian with a mission, but were they successful? Did Lancer’s wean us off the loutish lager? Was our table overrun with flagons of real ale and goblets of Bordeaux? Well, I had a Diet Coke so at least I was off the evil brew, but my companion instinctively ordered a Cobra. I guess some souls are just too mired in the amber to be persuaded.

*If, like me, the mere mention of Mission Impossible has you humming the tune then please feel free to indulge whilst reading this review (though Fluid will not be held responsible for any embarrassment caused). Alternatively if your humming ain’t that good this Youtube clip should get you through.
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Lancers Brasserie Description

In choosing Lancers Brasserie you have paid us a compliment and set us the task of living up to your standards. We hope our recent refurbishment will ensure you enjoy the meal of your life. We have spared no expense to create an atmosphere in which dining is a pleasurable and rewarding experience. Our three separate dining rooms entice the sense with very different atmospheres in each room. Our cuisine is Bengali or French and the spirit is of fine food as reassuringly fine service. Care was taken in the selection of every part of this experience. As the sumptuous rosewood and beech of our interior complement the rich ingredients, so the delicacy of our herbs and spices complement the intricacies of our wines. Thousands of pounds has been spent in creating the most sumptuous dining experience in Stockbridge, one of the most elegant areas of Edinburgh. Feel free to take your time in selecting from our menu and from the specially crafted wine list. After all, we have taken time to place before you a selection of dishes that highlights all that is appealing from the realms of both East and West. When you have made your choices it is then up to us to repay your compliment. Welcome to Lancers Brasserie....read more

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: Indian
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)